Columbus is home to plenty of Mexican joints, Italian joints, sushi bars and Chinese restaurants. When it comes to German food, however, that’s a little less ubiquitous. You can almost name all of the local German food operations. The prominent ones are Schmidt’s, Hofbrauhaus, and the place out at Crosswoods: Wurst Und Bier. Now, Valter’s adds one more option to the list, and it has set up shop at the Maennerchor.
It’s easy to pigeon-hole German offerings as being meat and starch-centric. Traditional dining expectations involve sausage, breaded meat, sauerkraut and potatoes. Happily, Valter’s menu offers a range of options; it’s more than just meat and starch.
As long as it’s cold outside, might as well kick things off with a bowl of Goulasch ($8). While it’s not particularly German, Goulasch (or Goulash) is certainly European and not commonplace on local menus. The house version is a thick, tomatoey soup with chunks of potatoes, roast and little bits of sausage. It’s modest and homey and served wth a hunk of chewy bread that has been toasted and buttered at the ends.
The menu also offers Jagermeister Wings ($9). Those were sort of a Fear Factor choice, as youthful experiences with the licorice-y liquor were, while impressionable, not terrible-ly pleasant. Jaegermeister works surprisingly well in wings. The accent is less medicinal and more like a mysterious something that gives extra body to the mildly sweet sauce. The wings themselves have an outstandingly good char going on, so that foundation could support any sort of sauce well.
Never thought about eating a bone-in Breaded Pork Chop ($18), as breaded things usually come without bones. It’s on the menu here. As served, it is a mammoth, thick, high quality chop, with a crunchy coating (like a country fried steak). The meat is fork-tender and it’s served with a pile of broccoli and smashed potatoes with a gravy that was… fascinating. It looked like mustard, but tasted like chicken. Jury’s out on the potato combo, but the the broccoli and pork are completely inhale-able.
For those who hanker for a more familiar food, there is the Original Reuben ($10): dewy roasted corned beef, mild sauerkraut, swiss and thousand island dressing. It’s a huge, hearty, flavorful combo served with chips.
And for those who want to forsake the entire ethnic eating scene, there’s a Caesar Salad ($6) on the menu. The house version would probably horrify a purist, but eating pragmatically is the way to have a good time 24/7. So, if the romaine in the Caesar is crowned in parmesan dust, red onions and bits of bacon, there’s nothing wrong with enjoying the bacon… pragmatically speaking. Those who need to have an aneurysm over the blasphemy of bacon in a Caesar can go right on ahead and have a little sanctimonious rant.
We’ll see who lives longer.
To wash it down, there’s a selection of wines by the glass, scotch, whiskey and beer… or bier, rather. Happily, the list includes names that can be ordered with a German inflection: Varsteiner Dunkel.
Valter’s is open for lunch and dinner daily at 966 S. High St.
For more information, visit www.maennerchor.com.
Photos by Walker Evans.
