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Treat to Try: DK Long Johns

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Treat to Try: DK Long JohnsPhoto by Miriam Bowers Abbott.
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Let’s talk Long Johns. Not the fish (with an apostrophe), the doughnut tradition. And not just any Long John doughnut, specifically, the ones found at DK Diner.

In all the recent doughnut adventures, DK’s offerings have their very own appeal. Long Johns are conventionally associated with a little magic and mystery. They’re usually long, bar shaped doughnuts with frosting and a filling piped inside. You can’t necessarily see the filling from the outside of the doughnut, and because of unclear standards of identity with respect to Long Johns, sometimes there’s no filling at all.

So first, there’s no uncertainty as to whether DK’s Long Johns have filling. You can see it from the outside. They’re slit open and slathered with filling like a layer cake. On the downside, you lose a little magic and mystery of the hidden filling. On the upside, you get an evenly distributed, sweet marshmallowy layer in every bite of pastry. We’ll take the upside any day.

There is a doughnut scene beyond the Long Johns at DK Diner. Heck, there’s also a dining scene beyond the doughnuts at the diner. The place is in Grandview with negligible parking spaces and ample seating. The ample seating will be filled with people, and the air will be filled with their busy clamor. It’s a lot to take in for the doughnuts, but it’s how the game is played. You won’t be the only person there in line for a single-purpose pastry fix.

They’ve got doughnuts at the counter in lots of flavors, including a seasonal pumpkin (sold out before 8 a.m.), big well-rounded blueberry and glazed doughnuts, and an impossibly light, fetching fried and frosted croissant in the tradition of the cronut. We also tried hole-less doughnuts with a thick lid of frosting and chopped salted peanuts, as well as an exemplary bag of doughnut holes doused in a crystalized icing.

Perhaps it’s traditional fare. But there’s no finer tradition than a starting the day with a big dose of sugar and starch. DK Diner is at 1715 W. Third Ave.

For more information, visit thedkdiner.com


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