Short Order: Wario’s Beef & Pork
The skies turned black when Sandman’s Cheesesteak abandoned the Arena District a year ago. An absence of walk-up cheesesteak sandwiches creates a void in the universe, and a giant hole in the stomach. That hole is emptiness.
And then, the resurrection. Word broke that Wario’s Beef & Pork set up a walk-up operation in the same spot. And it has cheesesteak. As in cheesesteak is the centerpiece of the menu. Literally, the option is in the center at the top of the menu. Also, probably figuratively, as the extra-cheesy version carries the Wario name.
The cheesesteak sandwiches are all that. They are ginormous, completely rounded with what feels like a pound of meat*, and that meat is savory-soft with velvety onions and cheese sauce that permeates every bite. It’s held together by a seeded roll (baked locally by Matija Breads) that has the right amount of softness to soak up the juices, and the right amount of heft to stand on its own. Miraculous. Life-changing. Soul-filling.
The huge sandwich is not, by any means, a $10 lunch. Adding a special cookie took it right up to nearly $20 (before tip). But the cookie was a good time, too. Like the sandwich, it’s weirdly large, and while it’s not much to look at from the outside…inside there’s a whole Oreo cookie, hidden under a soft, oreo-crumb-infused sugar-cookie mountain. That’s worth the price just for the thrill.
There are other sandwiches on the menu: pork, veggie, cold cuts. But we’ll have to repeat with several more cheesesteaks before venturing into other territory. Just to, you know, check for…uh…consistency.
Wario’s is not open on Sundays or Mondays, but outside that, Wario’s is there for you and the unfillable void from 12 – 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday at 111 W. Nationwide Blvd. (In the alley behind Marconi.)
Click here for more information.
*They say it’s 8oz of ribeye, but it feels like a LOT more than any double-burger.