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Short Order: Birria Fries at Martha’s Fusion Kitchen

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Short Order: Birria Fries at Martha’s Fusion KitchenBirria Fries - Photo by Miriam Bowers Abbott
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Martha’s Fusion Kitchen is presently building an empire on its birria foundation. The house menu offers Birria Tacos, Birria Bowls, Birria Burritos, and a Guanajuanto Pizzadilla, which is something like a hybrid of pizza made with birria. Martha’s is, after all, a fusion establishment. That leaves plenty of room for experimentation. And pizza.

And in this context, we find Birria Fries. Good night they are good! A mighty entrée-sized carryout box is heaped with thick, hot, crunchy fries, and the fries are covered in golden cheese sauce, then crowned with a solid layer of birria. Meat everywhere, we’re not talking about a scattering, we’re talking about a dense, weighted blanket of stewed beef with onions. Plus, a little chopped cilantro for décor, and a lattice of sour cream, to make it pretty…and to make it even more rich. 

This is, far and away, the best thing to ever happen to french fries. The soft meat isn’t so stewed that the natural texture is lost, and the seasoning has a light touch. The dish is absent cloying salty-cumin-seasoning-packets, allowing  the beef to deliver its wholesome flavor.

Beyond the birria scene, you can score tacos in all the expected flavors (chicken, pork, etc). There’s a whole section of the menu that involves non-birria items such as burritos and chimichangas. And there are gyros and subs and burgers, too. Plus, pizza and wings: That’s more fusion. 

The joint is tiny, just a few tables. It’s counter service, with call-ahead and online ordering options. And as of last week, its street signage still labeled it as a pizza joint, so watch for street numbers. It’s open daily at 3331 Maize Rd. in North Linden.

For more information, visit marthasfusionkitchen.com.

Photo by Miriam Bowers Abbott
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