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Short Order: Chicken and Biscuit from Dough Mama

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Short Order: Chicken and Biscuit from Dough MamaPhoto by Miriam Bowers Abbott
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In an age where restaurants are struggling to stay afloat, Clintonville’s Dough Mama expanded its operations and opened its second spot at 730 S. High St. in German Village in August. The new joint is a smallish, counter-order cafe, with a big indoor table that might be good for community seating in future, plague-free years. There’s a spot for outdoor seating as well, and cardboard boxes for carryout treats. 

The original Clintonville location established Dough Mama as a purveyor of very fine pies. Otherworldly pies, in fact, with unbelievably tender, flaky crusts, and packed to the gills with flavorful fillings. The original spot also offers tidy breakfast and lunch options: granola, quiche, sandwiches and soup. You’ll find both of those favorites in German Village as well. Its front bakery counter is well-stocked with gorgeous pies and goodies that beckon browsers. 

But German Village gets dinner options, too, and not just at dinner-time. The dinner menu is served all day long on Wednesdays through Fridays. The menu options take a page from the comfort cookbook: Tuna Noodle Casserole, pot pies and yes, please: Chicken and Biscuit. 

It’s fair to expect the biscuit in Chicken and Biscuit to be sublime, it is, after all, from the hands of Dough Mama. It sets itself apart immediately in terms of shape: rectangular instead of circular. And it boasts chunks, CHUNKS, of cheddar cheese in its layers, plus scallions. The biscuit is served split amidst a sea of chicken pot pie filling. At Dough Mama, that means shards of chicken, charmingly irregular chunks of carrots, parsley, celery, all in a thick slurry that exchanges a typical saltiness for something more complex and herby. 

The German Village location is open Wednesdays through Fridays from 8 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. It offers weekend hours as well: Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. – 4 p.m. You can find it at 730 S. High St.

For more information, visit dough-mama.com.

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