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    Review: Michael O’Toole’s Restaurant & Bar

    Looks can be deceiving. That was the theme of my recent visit to Michael O’Toole’s Restaurant and Bar. The large sign outside the restaurant claims that they were established in 1898, but in reality they only opened last year. The faux establishment date is a throwback to the history behind the owner’s family, and not a real indicator that you’re dining in a restaurant that is over a century old. Upon entering Michael O’Toole’s you might also think that it’s more of a bar than a restaurant. The front patio is often lively with drinkers and the noisy bar is all you can see from the host stand. Once you move beyond that though, the space opens up to reveal ample seating for restaurant patrons in a variety of tables, booths and raised platforms.

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    Michael O’Toole’s is proud of their Irish heritage, but doesn’t necessarily call itself an Irish Pub. Which means that you’ll find Guinness and fish & chips on the menu, but not a lot of traditional Irish cooking beyond that. The focus of the menu is on steaks, ribs, burgers, pasta and sandwiches.

    I started off with an order of the Disco Fries ($7.99), which are large steak fries topped with mushroom gravy, cheddar cheese and sour cream. A dish somewhat similar to poutine, but definitely much more Americanized. The fries are quite good, with large flecks of sea salt, but both the gravy and sour cream by themselves were a little generic. While not the prettiest dish, everything tastes great when combined, which helps you to overcome the fear that you’re clogging your arteries with this dish. I also found the ingredients to be a little out of proportion; a little more gravy and a little less sour cream would have balanced things a bit better. All in all a great bar-food snack if you’re just in the mood for a drink with something more substantial than a regular order of fried potatoes.

    The Mac & Cheese ($4.99) can be ordered off the sides menu and is fairly substantial on its own. A healthy portion penne pasta is topped with creamy cheese, a sprinkling of Parmesan, scallions and tomatoes. A perfectly acceptable version of this staple dish, but it could have used some sort of extra punch to make it stand out.

    The Prime Rib French Dip ($12.99) sandwich contains shaved Prime Rib, onions, mushrooms, provolone, a horseradish-based sauce and a bowl of au jus to dip with. The prime rib was cooked to well done, but still tender and juicy on its own, and a great upgrade to a sandwich typically prepared with shaved roast. The au jus was oniony and flavorful, almost like a bowl of French onion soup minus the cheese and crouton. A very good large sandwich for the price.

    The Lake Erie Fish & Chips ($17.99) includes a fried perch filet on a bed of steak fries and a side of coleslaw. The breading used on the perch was absolutely delicious. Cooked to a light golden crisp without tasting overly greasy. The fries were once again tasty even without the disco additions, but I was turned off of the cole slaw by the heavy use of celery seed. If that happens to be your personal preference for how cole slaw should taste, you’re in luck. Otherwise, this was a great entree.

    For dessert I tried the Cinnamon Peach Cobbler ($5.99), one of several great sounding desserts on the menu at Michael O’Toole’s. The peaches are cooked with cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla for a nice robust flavor, and then topped with a streusel crumble and served warm with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. A great southern classic that was well prepared and flavorful.

    Overall, I was happy with most everything I tasted at Michael O’Toole’s, with a few small personal preferences aside. Michael O’Tooles is a worthy replacement of the former Damon’s Grill that was in this building prior to their opening, even if that was only two years ago and not 113.

    Michael O’Toole’s is located at 89 E. Nationwide Boulevard, near the Columbus Convention Center. Hours, menus and more information can be found online at www.michaelotooles.com.

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    Morgan Kelley
    Morgan Kelleyhttps://columbusunderground.com
    I'm the former Restaurant & Food Critic of Columbus Underground. I love all types of food, and I'm not afraid to try anything once. I strive to adhere to the Association of Food Journalists guidelines, which means I don't do special foodie events, I pay for all of my meals in full and I will always share with you my honest and unbiased opinion.
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