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Restaurant Review: Eden Burger

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Restaurant Review: Eden BurgerPhotos by Lauren Sega.
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Eden Burger is at its best, its very best, with its straight-up burger creations. And, as luck would have it, those sorts of things comprise the better part of its vegan menu.

As a vegan operation, Eden Burger rejects not only meats, but all animal products; the house dining theme takes eggs and dairy off the table too. What’s left to put on the menu? Burgers, nuggets, fries and milkshakes, albeit without the cow juice. Eden Burger is on a mission to scratch the fast-food itch in an animal-friendly way.

While the spot is a teeny, casual place, it’s well put-together with concrete floors, matching high tables, and a practice of the staff offering enthusiastic, engaging welcomes.

Start with the Eden Burger ($7). Its soft bun holds a sturdy, dark patty, said to be made from beans, rice, oats, onion and pumpkin seeds. The burger is not so processed that you can’t recognize and appreciate its parts, but it still comes across effectively as a burger, topped with (dairy-free) American, mayo, a house sauce and “LTOP,” which is lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. The burger does, in fact, fulfill cravings for fast food. It delivers that briny, satisfying hit that makes regular, meaty burger joints so very popular. As a bonus, you don’t feel gross after an Eden Burger binge.

You can score fries with your burger too ($3): skinny, peel-on, seasoned and hot off the fryer: a perfect match for the entrees. What’s even better, though, are the Loaded Fries ($6): those same skinny fries can be tarted up with a crushed burger, “Eden Sauce” and tomatoes, onions and pickles. It’s more of a meal than a side and honestly hard to stop eating.

Bean burgers aren’t the only thing on the menu; there’s also a section of Tender Patties: that’s breaded, fried tempeh. Those particular offerings inspired a mixed reaction. The fried tempeh patty is something that comes off like a super-dense, dry, hashbrown patty. Under normal circumstances, that sort of thing would not be lovable, but it’s worth an experiment in the Buffalo ($8) version, drenched in signature Buffalo wing sauce with “bleu cheese.” Buffalo sauce is a game-changer that can save a lot of things, including the odd tempeh patty.

The menu features a variety of burger variations using the two styles of patties. So far, the only combo that hit as a dud was a Bacon Ranch ($8) version. While bacon is normally a beloved thing, it’s the problem here. The texture of the faux meat was baconish, but the flavor was comparable to something on the lines of salty-playdough. Once the offending bacon was removed, the rest of the burger was pretty enjoyable with its ranch and American cheese combo.

You can round things out with the house Milk Shakes. As the shakes are built on an ice cream substitute that’s made with bananas, expect a defined contribution from the fruit. That said, The chocolate ($5) version is pleasure to gulp; smooth, chocolatey, with (yes) the inescapable, undeniable, sweetness of banana.

You can find Eden Burger at 1437 N. High St.

For more information, visit their Facebook page.

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