If The Eagle looks a little too moneyed to be an independent joint, you’re on to something. That’s not to say it’s part of the mega chain invasion that irks Short North purists. The joint does have some pre-Columbus history, though. It’s part of a diverse restaurant empire based in Cincinnati. There’s another Eagle down there and a third in Indianapolis, but other than that, it’s not like there’s a whole flock or anything. Eagles soar alone.
The puns are going to be easy on this one.
Anyway, The Eagle made its debut in the Short North this summer. It’s a beer house with a serious commitment to food, and there’s a great deal to love about its edibles. The best place to enjoy said edibles is probably from one of the high booths that lines the establishment’s walls. They’re handsome and dark and luxurious looking. They are also a Warrior-Dash-styled challenge to conquer. For some reason, it was difficult to slide behind the table into the seats. Maybe they’re for tall people: taller than 5’8″, perhaps. Maybe they’re for skinny people (although no one has ever called me tubby). Or perhaps the booths are just a puzzle for smart people to overcome. Whatever it is, the fastest way to occupy a cushy seat in the booth is to crawl in on all fours, to the abject mortification of dining companions.
Chicken is The Eagle’s headliner, and it shines brightest in the house Fried Chicken Sandwich ($9). The specialness of the house free-range, Amish poultry and the brining process is very much evident in the offering. The chicken has a succulent, savory accent that you don’t find every day, and it hides just beneath the surface of a network of super-crispy crunchies. The sandwich is rounded out with some long-cut slaw as a foil, and held together inside a toothsome bun.
Those who just want straight bone-in chicken can score the bird alone in several configurations: whole, half, dark, white. The 1/4 white ($7) boasts the same nice meat you’ll find in the sandwich, albeit with a spicy-sweet honey mix replacing the slaw and bread.
Beyond the chicken, there is an expansive world of options. The meat in the Pork Sandwich ($9) is dewey soft and is unconventionally teamed with broccoli rabe and some spirited asiago. It’s a sturdy, hearty choice.
Alternately there are several salads on the menu too. The Kale ($9) was mildly disappointing. It’s not bad, it just can’t compete with the chicken. Pieces of kale, plump golden raisins, cornbread croutons, cheddar and skinny strips of apple do the best they can together with a vinaigrette, but the resulting mixture comes across as joylessly healthy.
So forget the trendy Kale and go with timeless Collard Greens ($4) instead. Stewed with ham and bacon, the thoroughly wilted greens are one of the nicest ways to inhale a lot of vitamins.
Same love for the Succotash ($5): the kitchen takes it seriously, it’s not some throw-away dish. Also cooked with cured meats, the succotash is loaded with corn, green beans, and edamame (in succotash, it’s a ringer for a mutant lima bean).
For the beer house element, The Eagle serves over 100 craft beers, including (as you might expect) ones grown in Ohio and Columbus. There are also cocktails, wine, non-alcoholic and gluten-free beers.
The Eagle has landed at 790 N. High Street.
For more information, visit www.theeagleotr.com.
Photos by Walker Evans.
