Restaurant Review: Talita’s
Columbus didn’t used to have very many taco joints. Back in the last century, Talita’s was the lone Tex-Mex duck in the middle of Clintonville. It disappeared a few years ago, but now it’s back in a new neighborhood location.
Cactus is not on the menu. Pork stomach, lovable though it is, is not on the menu. If you’re looking for a joint that’s authentic to Mexico, you’re barking up the wrong tree at Talita’s
But if you’re looking for a joint that bills itself as selling “Authentic Talita’s”, Brownsville, Texas styled food (a tradition that dates back to 1968), give it a try.
Give it a try, because there is no flippin’ rice in Talita’s burritos.
Unless you ask for rice, which would be weird, because rice in burritos is an abomination that was invented to maximize profits while feeding people giant wads of useless starch. End of rice rant.
While the new Talita’s is very much like the old Talita’s, it’s not exactly like the old Talita’s. The new one has counter service. And while counter-service can be soul-killing for staffers, the ones at Talita’s still seem engaging and human. Plus, they’ll call you “honey”, which is also authentic Brownsville, Texas.
From the very first Taco, you can feel the throwback vibe: it’s a thin corn shell, packed with meat, icebuerg lettuce and topped with thick shreds of yellow cheese. The taco is sturdy, and not greasy or mysterious in a way. You can score two tacos with beans and rice on the side for $6.99. If you order chicken, you’ll get a shell packed with a dense pile of soft, natural-tasting shredded poultry. Ground beef is also an option: it’s got the texture of actual meat, and isn’t mealy like the stuff at so many taco joints.
The Wet n’ Cheesy Burrito ($7.99) has just got to be the best thing on the menu. The shell is soft and tender enough to cut with a fork, and it soaks in the sauce it’s smothered in. A generous lid of melted cheese crowns the top. The insides fairly explode with shredded chicken and cheese (there are beef option too . . . and yes, you can put rice in it). There’s also crunchy lettuce inside the burrito; with tomatoes and onions; a glorious mess.
For those who prefer a Burrito unadorned, there’s the Burrito Platter ($7.99). Instead of the smothering sauce, there some rice and beans on the side. Both sides serve as salty good stuff that breaks up the monotony of a big entree.
Tacos, burritos… what’s left?
Enchiladas ($7.99); that makes the trifecta of Tex-Mex cuisine. At Talita’s they’re made with corn tortillas -really, just as tender as the flour tortillas, and filled with meat and cheese and topped with sauce.
The dessert at Talita’s is a throw-back too. The Cinnamon Crisp ($1.99) offers oversized tortilla triangles, fried crisp and coated with cinnamon sugar. They’re good by themselves, but even better with the little packages of honey for a bonus sugary boost.
Talita’s is serving lunch and dinner and can be found at 2700 North High Street.
More information can be found online at www.talitas.com.
Photos by Mollie Lyman of www.fornixphotography.com.