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Restaurant Review: Preston’s

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Restaurant Review: Preston’sPhotos by Lauren Sega.
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Word on the street is that Preston’s is the place to score a good burger. It’s not just the “word” that’s on the streets. Preston’s itself is literally on the street too. It runs a thriving mobile food truck operation, as well as steady gigs subcontracting inside of other local bars. It’s the strangest combo racket of monolithic powerhouse and keepin-it-local, ever. It’s worth noting that Preston’s also runs on a little culinary celebrity power in its kitchens: the project comes courtesy Matt Heaggans (Rossi fame) and Catie Randazzo (Challah Food Truck). There are good reasons to expect something special.

And indeed, the burgers do not disappoint. Let’s just start there. They’re on the slimmer side, but plenty wide, so a single can fully scratch the burger itch (unless you just have to have double meat). At $6, the Single is set at a freakishly affordable price for a burger. It sits on a soft pillowy bun, with melted American cheese and a house mix of shredded iceberg, razor thin pickles and onions, layered with a special sauce.The outcome has the flavor of a painstaking production, but the looks of a truckstop. While the burgers are not small, after you finish one, you’ll want another, so it’s best practice (and low-risk) to plan accordingly.

There is a land beyond beef burgers on its menus. The kitchen will make you a veggie burger ($9) with the same fixins. It truly speaks to the power of the condiments. Although some (all) of the beefiness is gone, the end result is still a compelling burger combo.

There is also a Pork Belly ($11) sandwich on the menu. On the local scene, pork belly often turns out to be indistinguishable from bacon, but Preston’s does it differently. It takes long, slender slabs of pork, with fat attached, and fries and sauces it. The fat component is mildly horrifying, and the grain of the meat runs lengthwise, which makes biting and chewing somewhat unwieldy. The pork belly option falls neatly under the category of “acquired taste.”

The Egg Soufflé* ($6) is not an acquired taste, it’s likable right away. It’s available Sundays at the food truck. It’s not a solo soufflé itself, but rather a sandwich. At its center is a poofy, manicured square of egg. It’s teamed with the nice soft bread, pickles, with some sort of herby mayo. All in, a strikingly nice combo for a late breakfast.

Rounding things out are the house stubby fries ($4). They’re thick enough to maintain moisture, thin enough to deliver crunch: likable, substantial companions for the burgers.

Waiting at the end of the meal is a fantastic dessert option: The butterscotch pudding* ($3) is a favorite, and a dish seldom-seen on the food scene, generally speaking. Indeed, the pudding is worthy. It’s not that cloyingly fake Jello butterscotch that hits like a sledgehammer; Preston’s version is both lighter in hue and in flavor. While there is something to be said about a strong butterscotch flavor, there’s something wonderful about this version’s soft, cooling cloud of sweetness tinged with a faint, natural, buttery butterscotch.

The menu at Preston’s varies slightly, depending on which location you visit and the day you visit. You can find it at Woodland’s Backyard and all the places that its food truck travels.

*Editor’s note: the egg soufflé and butterscotch pudding were unavailable at the time photos were taken.

For more information, visit prestonsburgers.com

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