Our City Online


Restaurant Review: Philco Bar + Diner

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Restaurant Review: Philco Bar + Diner
Decrease Font Size Increase Font Size Text Size Print This Page
  • Sumo

From the looks of it, Philco Bar + Diner is the sort of thing that’s in the right place at the right time. Filled to the gills with patrons, Philco is a petit little joint in the Short North. It just opened in the old Phillip’s Coney spot, filling the shoes of a century-old local institution. Things are different now. The new diner is slick. It’s a diner where you’ll see guests swirling their wine glasses… while gulping down a biscuit sandwich: clearly a good fit for the neighborhood.

In the great diner tradition, breakfast is served all day (hurrah!). The Steak & Eggs ($13) is good stuff at a pretty good value. An order offers a decent sized pile of eggs (the scrambled ones were pleasantly fluffy, and the menu says they come from free-range chickens) with nice wedges of trimmed steak piled up with some home fries. The beef is a grade or two higher than truck stop steak, which makes the dish a treat.

For the Breakfast Biscuit ($6) crowd, there’s a fluffy biscuit filled with fried egg, creamy chèvre and chorizo for sausage. The chorizo (nicely non-greasy) is an interesting twist, and makes a fine substitute for regular sausage.

Moving beyond the breakfast tray, there are a variety of other edibles for guests to nosh on after 11am. From the Salad department, consider an Iceberg Salad ($7). It’s a big, intact wedge, drizzled with gorgonzola dressing, plus a few croutons and some crispy fried slices of chorizo.

The Grilled Cheese Sandwich ($8) was sort of underwhelming. It’s more of an apples and bacon sandwich with a teeny touch of cheese –not really enough to even glue the parts together. Of course, if you like crunchy-apples-and-bacon sandwich, then this is totally up your alley.

More beloved is the Phillip’s Burger ($8). That one is pretty darn good. Teamed with Ohio cheddar, a loaded mayo, and an intense dose of oven-dried tomato, the burger nicely executed and served in soft challah.

While almost the entire menu is served by 11am and runs throughout the day, there are just a few items that are for the evening crowd only: Steak Frites, 40 Clove Chicken, and a Pork Shoulder Pot Roast. You can find those after 4pm.

Sides are sold separately. Two of them in particular are exquisite. The Fresh Cut Fries ($2.50) are thick cut, soft inside and crackling outside. The Maple Ricotta Cornbread ($2.50) is also outstanding. First, because the combination in itself is conceptually divine. The execution is top-shelf too: a dense cornbread with a soaking pour of maple. The sodden bites are, as expected, the best bites.

The menu-slash-placemat offers a modest, manageable selection of edibles, but there’s room on the sheet of paper for six desserts. The Chocolate Chip Cookies ($4) were really interesting. They were puffy and crumbly – an unusual texture. Still, the texture made them team especially well with a cup of milk. Worth a try for those who find the regular tollhouse version to be passe.

You can find Philco Bar + Diner at 747 N. High Street. It’s open early for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

More information can be found online at www.facebook.com/PhilcoBar.diner.

Photos by Mollie Lyman of www.fornixphotography.com.


dining categories

Join us on July 22nd to experience the best that Columbus has to offer in the realm of healthy living, exercise and wellbeing!