Restaurant Review: Mr. Hummus Grill
Mr. Hummus Grill has a moniker that suggests a super-casual operation. The serving team leans toward branded t-shirts, which bolsters that impression. That said, the interior of Mr. Hummus’ digs on Bethel road is kind of breathtaking. Debuting this spring, Mr. Hummus set up shop at an address that used to be a shish-kebab place. The walls are covered, floor to ceiling, with glossy sectioned wood paneling. It is magnificent.
But, beyond that, Mr. Hummus is all business. No pretenses, just an effort to create and share excellent edibles.
It would probably be weird to hit Mr. Hummus without actually getting Hummus, and it can be found, exactly where you’d expect it: in the appetizer section ($4.95). To be sure, the hummus is excellent, a garlicky mix of blended chickpeas and tahini paste with a feint lemony zing. The hummus is good, but then again, hummus is generally good.
So maybe something a little less ubiquitous? An order of Cheese Rolls ($6.95) delivers a collection of tubes of flaky phyllo that hold a rich, warm, comforting cheese mixture. As the pastry that holds the cheese is semi-dry and charm-free, it’s not as likable as the filling, so stick with the hummus.
Or the house made sausage. It is different, and different in the best possible way. First, the little links are unprecedentedly lean and finely ground, especially for sausage. Flavor-wise, the house-made Makanek Sausage ($6.95) is entirely distinct from more familiar versions of briny breakfast sausage and fennel-filled Italian sausage. Mr. Hummus sausage boasts flavors that are prominently Mediterranean, but not particularly easy to identify. The menu mentions its makanek spices, and internet recipes say that’s a traditional blend that includes cumin, salt, pepper and cinnamon. However they do it, the end result is fantastic.
In fact, you can extend your sausage experience with a Soujouk Sandwich ($6.95). It’s a thin and floppy pita filled with links of a different variant of the house-made sausage. The Soujouk version has an attention-getting reddish beet hue, but a milder flavor (for some reason, we were expecting something spicier). The links hold meat that is no less finely ground and lean. The sandwich also offers a nice mess of tomatoes, pickles and onions forever, plus sauce. Think of it like an artisanal gyro.
For a more regular gyro, there is the Beef Shawarma ($6.95). It has a similar combo in the sauce and veggie department, with savory sliced beef. You’ll miss out on those interesting sausages though.
The kitchen has a nice way with poultry too. The Chicken Tawook Platter ($13.95) is described as using a charcoal roasting process, and the flavors in the marinated chunks of chicken testify to the fidelity of that description. Every bite boasts a magical outdoorsy accent, as good as any summer barbecue. It’s served with rice or fries, the latter of which are solid.
There’s lots more to explore on the menu, which includes vegetarian, seafood and lamb options. You can find Mr. Hummus Grill at 1450 Bethel Rd.; it’s open every day for lunch and dinner.
For more information, visit mrhummusgrill.com.