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    Restaurant Review: Jiu Thai Asian Cafe

    The path to Jiu Thai Asian Cafe is a well-traveled one. It already has a solid reputation in town for its competence in Asian fare, Chinese to be exact. While its name might suggest a menu that features dishes from the cuisine of Thailand, the options instead lean hard toward Chinese. Situated in an oddly complicated strip mall at the corner of Bethel and Olentangy, Jui Thai is bustling even at non-prime dining times. Service is fast, and the eats are far, far above average.

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    The aforementioned Chinese menu is not overly large and ranges from the familiar, to less familiar dishes (I see you, chicken hearts). A friend’s suggestion to try the Biang Biang Noodles was spot-on. The kitchen crafts the noodles in-house, in a sizable space you can see looming at the back of the restaurant. In the dish, lengthy strands of flat noodles provide a soft, starchy base for chunks of crunchy bok choy, napa cabbage, bean sprouts, and thinly sliced lean beef sprinkled with sesame seeds. It’s served in a brew that’s addictive enough to compel careless, enthusiastic consumption, but also spicy enough to catch at the back of the throat periodically.

    An option bearing the eatery’s name, Jiu Thai Beef, was also nicely executed. It’s briny with a mild sweetness, and built around chunks of beef that are both lean and tender, without taking on the weird mystery texture too often found in local restaurants. Onions and an ample supply of sliced red and green peppers add some welcome variety to the dish.

    Even something seemingly run-of-the-mill, like Kung Pao Chicken, turns into a delightfully executed surprise. The poultry is sweet and spicy and fried so crisp that, at first glance, you almost expect it to have some sort of breading (nope). It’s mixed with sliced peppers and thick cubes of yellow squash, the latter of which does a fine job of maintaining its distinct taste while soaking up the flavors of the sauce.

    For simpler fare, there is a section of skewered items. That’s where you’ll find the chicken hearts and squid heads. For more timid diners, the scene also offers skewers made with lamb or chicken. In the case of both, the seasoned skewer treatment defines the dishes, with the meat providing more of a textural contribution.

    More formal munchie options include egg rolls, dumplings (steamed or fried) and edamame. The name of the Delicious Pork Sandwich was not wrong. A thin bun is overflowing with flavorful pork and shredded lettuce, and topped with a bounty of sesame seeds. It’s a simple combo, but it lives up to its promise.

    Affordable Chinese food is easy to find in Columbus. Exquisite dishes prepared with a variety of vegetables and subtle flavors — that’s not quite as ubiquitous. Jiu Thai is special because it combines the best of both worlds, with most entrees priced under $15. You can find it at 787 Bethel Rd. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner, with the (somewhat unusual) exception of Tuesdays, on which it’s closed.

    For more information, visit mealage.com.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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