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Restaurant Review: Fox in the Snow – German Village

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Restaurant Review: Fox in the Snow – German VillageAll photos by Lauren Sega.
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Fox in the Snow Cafe, once a pioneering coffeehouse and bakery on North Fourth Street, opened the doors to its second location in a well-travelled foodie zone in German Village. The operation is as renown for its coffee as it is for its epic edibles, both savory and sweet. No surprise: The new location continues in this tradition.

Seating is iffy during rush times. It’s also close, and it’s close all the time: if you sit with a friend, you’ll probably be able to create an illusion of personal space at the table. If you sit alone, you will feel as though you are somehow joining others noshing in close proximity. If people and closeness is a problem for you, you should probably investigate carryout options.

Regardless of your ultimate seating destination, the best choice is to take one of everything in the case for sustenance. It’s a goal to shoot for, anyway. Start with an item that was suggested by the clerk as well as another person in line: a Blueberry Galette ($4). First, the plump blueberries are impossibly sweet. There’s no goo that makes them sweet, they are just sweet in and of themselves. The berries sit on a soft cloud of frosting-like filling, that itself rests on a flaky pastry that’s encrusted with great big sugar granules. The fruit, the filling, and the granules offer three distinct kinds of sweetness that make the whole combo sublime.

The Galette is a better choice, a far better choice, than the Cinnamon Roll ($4). it’s big, and the soft bread that comprises the tall roll was dewy enough; the discreet swirl of cinnamon was appropriately distributed. It has a great deal of frosting, though. It sits on top like a thick crown. The frosting doesn’t blend or complement any part of the roll, it just sits there with its cloying, gooey sticky sweetness. Even as person with a strong history of eating only the frosting off of party cakes, it’s too much.

There is the somewhat famous Egg Sandwich ($7). Fox in the Snow is known for its take on the breakfast sandwich, a perfectly square patty of scrambled egg topped with arugula, bacon, melted cheese and served in a tender, toothsome roll. It’s solid, as expected. But, given the choice between that and a different breakfast food option sitting in the case, the Ham & Swiss ($4), the ham wins, hands down. It teams good quality folds of ham in a flakey folded pastry that’s studded with sesame seeds. The toastiness of the sesame is the perfect foil for the cured meat.

Onwards into the chocolate zone. The Brownie ($2.50) is a mammoth, dense brick of chocolate with a perfect sturdy lid. It has no frosting and needs no frosting, because frosting would distract from the enjoyment of a well-made brownie top. The Chocolate Chip Cookies ($2.50) make the place a destination point. Big chunks of chocolate, buttery batter, accentuated with a hint of salt that’s trendy, but trendy because it so nicely plays off the chocolate.

And yes, you can wash it down with coffee, espresso, cappuccino, latte, and for this weather: Hot Chocolate ($4) goes nicely with the baked goods. You’ll find the new location at 210 Thurman Ave.

For more information, visit foxinthesnow.com.

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