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    Restaurant Review: Flatiron Tavern

    Flatiron is back. It seems like the curiously skinny Flatiron building has always housed a restaurant on the ground level of its long, slender self. For awhile, it was a reliable, quality Cajun-ish joint, then it ventured into something along the lines of nouveau cuisine. Then the whole operation closed its doors. But now, Flatiron is back, this time as Flatiron Tavern

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    Taverns themselves are not particularly rare things, and Columbus has plenty of joints that call themselves “taverns.” In this case, the addition of “Tavern” to Flatiron’s moniker connects it to an operation called “City Tavern.” That’s an important connection. City Tavern is the business that changed the trajectory of the Wonder Bread building restaurant. After years on the struggle bus, it seemed like the address was a no-go for eateries, but once City Tavern set up shop there, something clicked. Success!

    Of course, the fact that City Tavern serves up some of the best burgers in town might have something to do with the success. And, knowing Flatiron Tavern’s connection, it makes sense to start with the Smash Burger ($12) on its menu. Indeed, destiny delivered. The double-pattied version features cheese and lush layers of tomato, red onion and greens that go extra-velvety with the gentle heat trapped between burger and bun. The side of Fries ($2) sparkle with a sheen that comes fresh from the fryer. As a partner, they deliver the right levels of plump potato-ness. 

    Looking beyond Flatiron Tavern’s burger destiny, a chunk of its menu is devoted to Philly Sandwiches in variations that include chicken and “Impossible” (non-meat product). This is a most welcome development for the neighborhood, as Sandman Cheesesteak tragically vacated its spot a few blocks away in the Arena District. The Ribeye ($12) version features lean, beefy layers of thinly-sliced meat. You can pick a cheese, and the white cheese sauce comes in a abundant, flowing supply, spreading its cheesy saltiness everywhere. There’s an up-charge for veggies, and while the sandwich would certainly be fine without them, peppers, onions and soft sautéed mushrooms ($1.50, all-in) give it the depth that makes it worth a repeat order.

    For more of a salad experience, you can go full-veg, choosing from an array of plant-based mixes that range from a house salad to a quinoa-based Southwestern blend. Alternately, you can also top any salad with grilled chicken ($3), and make it a meal. That said, the Spinach Salad ($8) is pretty hearty in its own right, with bacon and boiled egg. Croutons, provolone and an old school bacon vinaigrette tie it all together to create a salad that does not feel like an obligation. 

    Appetizers are mostly the classic sort, wings, mac & cheese, etc. As a case in point, the Pretzel Bites ($8) are pretty ordinary, served in little rounds that vaguely look like buckeyes along with cheese sauce and mustard. 

    Beyond the eats, it’s a tavern’s tavern: equipped with all the beer you need to wash down, represented from Rheingeist, Wolf’s Ridge and Columbus Brewing Company. And if you’re more the cocktail or White Claw type, well…they’ve got that too.

    Flatiron Tavern is at 129 E. Nationwide Blvd.

    For more information, visit flatirontavern.com.

    All photos by Walker Evans.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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