Restaurant Review: Egg-O-Holic
Egg-O-Holic is more than just an egg joint. It’s an Indian egg joint. The first Ohio spawn of a Chicago-area culinary project has taken root on Bridge Street up in Dublin. It’s a fast-casual establishment: order at the counter, take a number, choose a table. Fun, colorful artwork on the wall merges egg and Bollywood themes together with pop-art sensibilities.
Before all this, though, you probably already knew that eggs are an incredibly versatile food. They make an appearance in almost every meal, in every course, in almost every culture. Even so, the menu at Egg-O-Holic opens up a whole new genre of egg dishes to try.
Things got off to a rough start with the Cheese Katori ($3.99). It’s a fancy take on deviled eggs that includes a generous crown of cheese. Beneath the cheese, there is a yolk-based filling that was generously supplied and spiked with mildly hot seasoning. The egg-white foundation that held the filling was on the distracting side. Egg whites don’t necessarily thrive in repeat cooking scenarios; they can get rubbery and chewy. While certainly edible, the Katori would have been more appealing had the egg white been more tender.
But in something like an Egg Curry, in which the boiled egg component is shredded, you don’t notice any textural issues at all. A thick, warm, red curry hosts teeny shreds of egg white that work almost like a rice replacement. The curry itself is nicely executed, hearty and full-bodied, and its depth promotes the success of the rest of the dish.
The anti-carb people are really gonna love that stuff.
That’s not to say the theme of Egg-O-Holic is paleo or anti-carb. That’s not the shtick…although, come to think of it, the Katori number fits the anti-carb theme, too. You can score plenty of starchy things at Egg-O-Holic. In fact, there’s a whole rice section on the menu. Something like the Lava Pulav ($9.99) is built on a tender omelette foundation, topped with seasoned rice, gravy and cheese. The gravy has an added aromatic accent, and it ties together the otherwise incongruous elements. It absolutely works.
Wraps are well-priced. The Masala Wrap ($4.99) provides an opportunity to try out the house chicken, as Egg-O-Holic does include a few poultry options on the menu (to answer the question, the egg comes first, though). The kitchen uses halal chicken, for those who are observant. The wrap itself inspired some debate at the table. While there was one ardent defender, based on the pleasant masala seasoning, the chicken meat itself seemed oddly dry and pulverized into something akin to clotty (but flavorful) sawdust.
The Egg Wrap ($4.99), on the other hand, held a likable take on egg salad, with more julienned egg whites mixed with spiked curry and a few diced tomatoes and onion.
Beverage wise, there’s a customizable Pepsi machine, as well as some theme beverages like a straight-shooting, creamy Mango Lassi ($3.49). There’s a lot more to explore on the menu, and enough wins to inspire more exploration. You’ll find it at 331 W. Bridge St.
For more information, visit egg-o-holic.com.
All photos by Susan Post