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    Restaurant Review: Dada Empanada

    The Dada Empanada experience inspires lots of random observations. It’s probably best practice to number all the observations, in order to keep the data all at hand.*

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    1. If you’re going to visit, you should call first, and make sure they’re open. The hours are basically 11am-11pm, but that timing seems to be flexible, and it’s open longer hours on weekends. Here’s the number: (614) 298-1256.
    2. There’s not much seating, so plan on carry-out.
    3. That said, staying on-premises will introduce esoteric experiences such as hearing the proprietor and a customer converse in Spanish, while a television station broadcasting in German fills the rest of the auditory void.
    4. The empanadas (aka: Classy Hot Pockets) are large and $3 each. An order of two or three will make a meal.
    5. The best approach is to just try all the empanadas, that way you get nourishment AND taste-test entertainment. The original plan was to rank them, but that fell through: a) Because many are very similar, or designed for particular palates. and b) Because this entire discussion is already numbered, and sub-numbering is crazy-making.

    The basic foundation of the empanadas has two parts. First, there’s a crescent-shaped shell. It’s flaky and layered, but more tender than the typical pie crust; the pastry shell retains some of the chewiness of a traditional bread. Almost every empanada also has an melted cheese element inside with the other fillings. So, when you read each empanada commentary, mentally insert “and melted cheese to tie it all together”.

    Let’s kick this off with the skippable ones, we’ll eliminate those and then carry on.

    Skip the Beef Empanada. The ground beef is fine quality, lean actually, and generously stuffed inside the pocket. That said, it’s bland. You can do better.

    Skip the Chicken Empanada. Same deal. While the shredded chicken is plenty spicy, there are more interesting things on the menu.

    Skip the Spinach Empanada. Even though it’s pretty (with a little leaf baked into the top), and again, generously packed with filling, the spinach needs a stronger cheese or seasonings to compete for stomach space.

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    Instead of the spinach, go with the Vegetable Empanada. It has seared kernels of corn that mix it up with zucchini, mushrooms and black beans.

    Try the Pizza Empanada or Italian Empanada. They’re like calzone, only better, because pizza crust can be overwhelming and too bready. Think of these versions as the eternally trendy fusion. The flaky-fine texture of the empanada pastry is perfectly suited to highlight a mountain of flavorful pepperoni (and sausage in the Italian one)… and the aforementioned cheese.

    Try the Plantain Empanada. The sweet starch and mild, sturdy cheese are natural companions.

    Try the Mofongo Empanada. The Mofongo comes across as sorta mysterious. It’s got a crumbly texture, something between a starch and a protein. Thanks to an ample supply of bacon, every bite is infused with its briny deliciousness.

    Try the Chorizo Empanada with Papas. Papas are potatoes; the chorizo holds it down with enough spiky seasoning to give the potatoes some worthy zip.

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    The Hawaiian Empanada is solid. As might be expected, pineapples, ham and cheese lurk inside. Every bite is packed with the flavorful combo.

    There’s a Cheese Empanada too. It’s good for kids (kids like cheese, and it’s got some kid-approved yellow cheese inside)… or people who just want comfort food.

    The place has little vats of sauce too: it’s pale green, soothing at first, with a seriously hot kick at the tail end. You can find it all at 199 Chittenden Avenue.

    For more information, visit www.dadaempanada.com.

    Photos by Walker Evans. Photos are taken at a different time than review, so discrepancies between photos and review may occur.

    *If you like irony, Dada is also the name of an art movement that prizes irrationality and randomness. There’s nothing more fun than imposing logic and order on anything Dada.

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    Photos by Walker Evans.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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