Restaurant Review: Cosecha Cocina
Cosecha Cocina is the new kid on the block in Italian Village. Serving from a menu based on tex-mex favorites, it’s a departure from the fare typically associated with its well-known Harvest Pizzeria kin. While artisanal pizza is not on the menu, plenty of happiness can be found in tacos and chips. And if that’s not your bag, then you can always drink your sorrows away at the bar with some of the Mezcal options. Or burn them away.
The building in which the newbie resides is lovely. As odd as this statement might read, the former dairy barn rises out of the neighborhood almost organically, with a big parking lot in the back, and patio out front, seamlessly connected to inside dining with big, open garage doors.
Things at the new joint ended well, but started rough with the Cardini Salad ($8). The menu mentions smoked trout in the description, and the lure of smoked trout in pretty much any form is irresistible. It’s a trigger. Sadly, the smoked trout appeared to be missing from the salad that arrived. That, or it was pulverized into microscopically tiny (invisible) pieces that contributed no trace of flavor. What remains is essentially a variation on caesar salad with a lime vinaigrette. It offers romaine, croutons, manchego, pomegranate seeds, and the bitter disappointment of missing trout.
But the chips are good at counteracting residual bitterness, they’re Shagbark chips, thick and glistening with oil, hot from the fryer. Teamed with guacamole, you get a luxe combo of the guac’s smoothness paired with an intense crunch ($7).
On the taco scene, you can score them in a parade of flavors. Chorizo ($8) is particularly good, and particularly interesting because of the addition of toasted pecans. The quality of chorizo is higher-than-average: it’s not oily or mealy, but spicy and chunky and the little chips of pecans compliment that texture. The combo is accented with a cute array of sweet potato curls, a slice of jalapeño, cilantro and radishes. Pork Carnitas ($8) also scores, bursting with the flavor of a classic combination of succulent pork and pickled pineapple on soft corn tortillas.
The Pork Meatballs ($10) are good. Coarse, and house made, they have the appealing mild meatiness of a good meatball, teamed with a vaguely spiked chipotle tomato sauce with cojita cheese. The Esquites ($4) is also recommended as a side diversion. The Mexican street food hit Columbus a couple years ago, and Cosecha assembles the heavy-hitter as a salad that can be eaten neatly with a fork. The fork method makes for a faster binging mechanism, a win all the way around.
There is the aforementioned Mezcal service, along with a selection of Margaritas, tequila cocktails, wine, beer and, for palates that lean to the tame side, the menu also includes Mexican Coke (sweetened with sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup).
You can find Cosecha Cosina at 987 N. Fourth St. It’s open for lunch and dinner daily. The lunch menu features tacos and tortas (sandwiches). The evening menu features the tacos and small plates.
For more information, visit www.cosechacocina.com.
Photos are taken at a different time than review, so discrepancies between photos and review may occur.