Our City Online


Restaurant Review: Brekkie Shack

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Restaurant Review: Brekkie ShackPhotos by Lauren Sega.
Decrease Font Size Increase Font Size Text Size Print This Page
  • Sumo

Brekkie Shack made its debut in Grandview Yard a few months ago. It’s tucked away down a corporate side road that connects Goodale and Third Avenues. The shiny new space uses hard surfaces and windowed garage-door walls, for a sleek, modern feel. That is, the “shack” does not feel like anything approaching a shack at all. It’s more of a cafe in the tradition of Northstar with extra-hip sensibilities (read: lots of Brussels sprout and avocado options).

Case in point: you can start your day out with a Plant-Based Hash ($12). It’s earthy and hearty, with a hash that’s topped with a couple of smashed eggs for sturdiness. The hash itself is an unexpectedly good mix with just enough sweet potatoes to tie together a nest of feathery green Brussels sprouts and razor-thin slices of something that looks like radishes. While the vegetables seem like an awkward combo, the potato binds it all together like a champ in a sturdy breakfast context.

Like any good diner/shack, you can score Pancakes ($10) morning, noon, and night. An up-charge ($2) adds chocolate chips to the mix, and probably qualifies the whole resulting concoction as dessert. The warm, golden stack is teamed with a generous supply of cold, dense butter and a ramekin of real, tree-tapped, maple.

For those interested in non-breakfast items, there are sandwiches and salads. In the Chicken Club ($12), a whole grain bun holds criss-crossed, substantial pieces of bacon and shards of chicken. There is a lot of chicken there, and it’s not the processed deli crud, it’s honest-to-goodness meat. The components merge together with the help of cheese and a super-smooth avocado paste. The whole thing stays intact better than it should, and turns out to be a good sandwich. You can get it with fries, or better yet, more Brussels sprouts. As a side, the vegetable is frizzled, like a well-done version of the crunchy onion topping that’s used on green bean casserole. That makes them surprisingly likable, but probably controversial: If you like briny crunchies, you’ll like the sprouts as a side. If you like your Brussels sprouts to taste like a vegetable, go with something else.

That “something else” is perhaps the Arugula Orzo Salad ($11). The tender green leaves of arugula mix it up with the nubby pasta and gorgonzola, sunflower seeds plus dried cranberries and a zingy vinaigrette.

You can check out some official dessert options in a case near the front. It’s well-populated with bar cookies and donuts too. Regarding the latter: Under a crown of candied cereal squares (a la Chex) sits an interestingly dense and soft, doughy base. It’s coated with with a thick slab of icing that could stand on its own. It’s not particularly lovable.

Brekkie Shack also hosts a full bar right in the center of the house. So you can team your sprouts and avocado enhanced dishes with a cocktail of your choice. Food acquisition is a little slow, even when the joint is not crowded, and prices seem a little above-market. Although, then again, the ingredients lean on the fancier side.

You can find it at 1060 Yard St.

For more information, visit thebrekkieshack.com.


dining categories

Tour dozens of apartments, condos and homes on Sunday, May 5th during the sixth annual Urban Living Tour!