Bring on the Banh Mi.
Banh Mi was the “it” sandwich a few years back. The trend might have gotten kickstarted when GQ (that’s Gentleman’s Quarterly) started writing obsessively about the Banh Mi back in 2015. The sandwich went from niche Vietnamese option, to a hip food featured on trendy menus. Traditionally, it starts with a baguette. Beyond that foundation, you’ll often find a host of fillings such as pate, carrots, daikon, jalapeños, cucumbers, lunch meat, and head cheese.
All in, Banh Mi is an interesting and fun sandwich with a lot of tastes and textures. But as a general fan of identifiable meat products, news of Bendi Wok N’ Bar’s take on the Banh Mi was most welcome. The centerpiece filling here is sliced pork, of which it provides an abundance. It’s a sturdy partner for the classic celebration of textures and zippy flavors that arise from matchsticks of pickled vegetables and slices ofjalapeño. Add in a little mayo to hold it together, and some house fries on the side, and it’s a take on Banh Mi that deserves its own trend ($11).
Bendi set up shop in German Village back in April. It operates out of the location that use to be home of Happy Dragon, a much-loved neighborhood Chinese joint. The replacement player is cute and artsy with a dose of sophistication and a techno soundtrack. An avalanche of caged lighting drops down from the ceiling amidst floating parasols.
And Bendi doesn’t just offer one sort of Banh Mi, it has the sandwich in three variants: There are also short rib and veggie versions. As nice as further exploration sounds, the sandwich scene at Bendi Wok competes with lots of other menu temptations.
Consider Bendi Soup ($6). It’s compelling in a way that is a million miles from some bland classic like chicken noodle soup. Instead, Bendi Soup is built on a coconut milk base that adds a distinctly aromatic interest that’s hard to stop slurping. Each deep, soulful spoonful of soup holds a different mix of treasures: chicken, mushroom, tomato – accented with onion, cilantro and chili paste.
There are familiar favorites on the menu as well – such as egg rolls and spring rolls. But just one step away from the familiar are re-imagined offerings such as General Tso’s Bites ($7), crunchy coated chicken with a traditional Tso sauce as a companion, instead of a soaker.
Drunken Noodles ($11) do not involve alcohol. They’re a popular Thai street food, with a backstory that seems to change, depending on the source you consult. Regardless, they make another nice showcase for pork. Guests pick a heat level, and while hot-heads might enjoy a “3,” a more modest “1” allows space for sincere celebration of its garlicky personality. Wide stretchy rice noodles mingle with the pork along with peppers, onions, carrots and tomato. It’s available with chicken, steak, or shrimp as well. And for fans of plant-based eating, there are tofu options.
Bendi is home to a full bar, and the selection is extensive. It offers cold and hot sake, beer, wine, and cocktails designated as “low-proof” and “full-proof”, so you know how big a punch they pack. The selection even extends to house mocktails including one called Tiger Eye, citrus-based with coconut and an extra hit of lime.
Bendi Wok n’ Bar can be found at 277 E. Livingston Ave. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner starting at 11 a.m.
For more information, visit bendiwoknbar.com.
All photos by Susan Post
