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    Restaurant Review: Fukuryu Ramen

    It’s been a few months since I wrote anything in list format. Clickbait sites put everything in list format, so that sucks some of the joy out of what is surely the most organized way to write anything. Regardless, something about Fukuryu Ramen inspires a list.

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    1) It’s run by the family behind The Kahiki. The Kahiki is a Columbus legend for the immersive Tiki bar experience it provided three decades ago. Having never visited the legendary destination, it’s vaguely satisfying to get to be a patron at one of its (non-immersive) descendants.

    2) The original Fukuryu was opened in Melbourne, Australia. The local store is the second location, and the first of its kind in the United States.

    3) Guests are greeted with a hearty “Irasshaimase!” from the staff. At least, that’s what Google indicates they’re saying. Our closest guess was “Namaste!”, but that didn’t seem quite right.

    4) It’s a casual operation, but not cheap. The bowls of ramen are priced at $10.90. It’s quality stuff, not a five-dollar broth bowl.

    5) The bowls are built on similar foundations. At the base is a giant squiggling nest of firm ramen noodles. With that, there’s going to be half an egg, a slice of soft pork belly, and a strip of seaweed. The broth is what defines each bowl, and it really does make each one different in an intriguing way. As broths go, they’re sturdy brews, with droplets of oil dancing across the top.

    6) The Tonkotsu Ramen bowl ($10.90 — pictured at the very top) is built around a terrific, full-bodied, pork bone broth. It’s pleasantly salty and is equipped with bamboo shoots along with the stuff mentioned above.

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    7) Meanwhile, the Miso Ramen bowl ($10.90) is defined less by a miso element and more by its combo of chicken and fish broth. It’s perhaps less briny than the Tonkotsu, with something that approaches a mild fishy sweetness. It makes the broth a natural partner for the painfully fresh kernels of corn added to the mix.

    8) It’s easier to appreciate the unique qualities of respective broths when you can contrast them with each other. Although lots of guests seems content dining solo or with a laptop, bring a friend for trading and tasting opportunities.

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    9) There are also side dishes. Pork Gyoza ($4.90) are tender little dumpling crescents stuffed with an eggroll-style melange of pork and veggies; not remarkable, but made more interesting by some spiky, salted green chili paste on the side.

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    10) Or there’s Japanese Fried Chicken ($5.90). No matter how tender and juicy the crispy-fried blobs of chicken are, they are out-shined by a sauce described as “yuzu citrus mayonnaise”. The name doesn’t do it justice. The thick sauce is floral and bright and addictive all at once. The combo could compete with Buffalo Wings as a binge food.

    11) The world of silverware is also embraced at Fukuryu Ramen. The bowls of ramen will arrive with one of the classic deep shovel-spoons. For those who prefer metal spoons (and forks), the table is equipped with some, along with chopsticks for picking up the noodles. No one needs to feel awkward in the utensil department.

    To round things out, the joint offers draft beers and Matcha soft-serve ice cream. You can find it at all at 1600 West Lane Avenue in Upper Arlington.

    For more information, visit www.fukuryuramen.com.

    All photos by Walker Evans.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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