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    Dish DeathMatch: Macarons Redux

    Macarons are back. Then again, I guess they never went anywhere. As a trend, they rose to prominence in 2013. And they’re still going strong. That’s quite an accomplishment for a sandwich cookie.

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    Of course, it’s a sandwich cookie that comes in a million variations, a treat for culinary explorers. That sort of variety supports a long lifespan. Macarons tend to be gluten-free, too, so they fit in with popular dining regimens.

    The first time around it was Pistacia Vera vs. Mad Macs. These days, Macaron Bar (MB), a Cincinnati-based pop-up, has energized the macaron buzz. It only makes sense to test-drive its wares against a local favorite, Pistacia Vera (PV). 

    A scientific taste test would match-up samples of the same flavor. In bakery-land, flavors, availability and packaging makes this particular feat impossible. Or, if not impossible, unachievable by a mere mortal. This is not a scientific project. That is how it goes. 

    At the pop-up, the cookies are paired in sets of different sizes (two-piece, six-piece, 12-piece). Based on host recommendations, we went with a simple combo of  Earl Grey Tea and Lemon Lavender. 

    From PV, you can pick individual macarons from the bakery case. We started with a classic: Vanilla Bean. The next choice was dictated by a stranger when a passerby stopped and pressed her finger against the glass, pointing at the Pear Ginger macaron with an approving sparkle in her eyes. She didn’t buy one, but we did. 

    Looks-wise, MB’s are taller cookies, in bright hues. PV’s are wider, in a neutral color palette. Texture-wise, all macarons tested achieved that defining, delicate crumble at first bite. That said, all cookies also survived a walk through the Short North and trip in the car. If you know meringue products in general, you know that’s an accomplishment

    So, they all look super-fancy. It’s gonna come down to a matter of taste.

    Because macarons come in interesting variations, you can make your tasting panel try to guess the flavors. That part didn’t go as well as intended: panelists were confused, and spent lots of effort concentrating, which takes away from enjoyment. Plus, their guesses weren’t very accurate. 

    But with a little flavor disclosure, things go better. The Earl Grey and Lemon Lavender from MB were a good pairing. While “tea” might be the expectation from the former, its bergamot, citrusy accents ring through. That makes it a nice partner for the Lemon Lavender. The lavender element gives the lemon a little aromatic depth. 

    PV’s vanilla shell gives way to a curiously-rich, buttery center. It’s almost a surprising contrast for the feather-weight exterior. Then came Pear Ginger. Seated in a shell that had the faintest suggestion of ginger, was an intense, sweet pear filling. It’s fully reminiscent of that really good pear you had one time, then spent forever searching for again.

    After all that, who makes the best macarons? It’s a little early in the game; there are lots of flavors left to try…but that Ginger Pear one, it’s got an early lead.

    For more information, visit macaron-bar.com and pistaciavera.com.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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