Our City Online

Dining

Dish Deathmatch: Donuts VS Doughnuts

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Dish Deathmatch: Donuts VS Doughnuts
Decrease Font Size Increase Font Size Text Size Print This Page
  • Sumo

Schneider’s Bakery is the sort of place that has a line of hungry people queued up waiting for donuts at one-in-the-morning when it opens.

That’s devotion. Aficionados says there’s nothing in this world like Schneider’s donuts. Time for a little fact checking, courtesy Dish Deathmatch.

At a more reasonable hour (midmorning) a giant collection of donuts was acquired from the small bakery in downtown Westerville. Even though the visit wasn’t in the middle-of-the-night, there was still a line at the bakery counter – but it moves fast.

For comparison, another huge sample of donuts was acquired from industry-standard Tim Hortons. Columbus is home to 26 Tim Hortons locations (and their US Regional Office in Dublin); so say what you want about mega-chains, they must be doing something right.

Let the face-off begin. For starters, the Schneider’s glazed donuts blew the Tim’s glazed offering right off of the planet. Schneider’s version had a stretcher texture, dewy dough, and a sweet glaze thick enough to chrystallize on top of the donut.

Tim’s donut might have been more perfectly circular, but its assets ended there. The donut was dryer, and it had only a barely-there whisper of sticky glaze.

While glazed donuts might be optimal testing ground, donut trials are about as fun as it gets. So, the testing continued through apple fritters, cream-filled, and jelly-filled donuts. The results from the taste panel were mixed. The tasters had praises for the chocolate icing on Tim’s cream-filled donuts. Overall, the components of both the cream and jelly filled pastries were incredibly similar: making the competitor flavors all-but-indistinguishable.

Schneider’s apple fritters had more cinnamon and more icing -but a few tasters had a preference for the texture in Tim’s fritters. If the pro-food critic gets to decide, the fritter-victory goes to Schneider’s for the more-ness of its icing. Plus, Schneider’s shapes its apple fritters like cinnamon rolls; cute counts for something.

Beyond the land of comparison, the 1am Schneider’s crowd strongly recommended the Davy Crockett. It’s a twisted fried roll, made with Schneider’s undeniably nice dewy dough, and topped with a thick coating of carmel-colored frosting. No complaints, but it’s got nothing on Schneider’s glazed numbers. Maybe it’s a 1am thing.

You can find Schneider’s Bakery at 6 South State Street in Westerville. It’s open Mondays 6am-12 noon; Tuesdays through Thursdays 1:30am until 6pm; Fridays from 1am until 6pm; and Saturdays from 1am until 3pm. And come prepared, as it’s a cash-only business.

More information can be found online at www.schneidersuptown.com.

Photo by Walker Evans.

Tags:

dining categories