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    Review: Addis Restaurant

    When the Blue Nile closed a few years ago, it left a big hole in the local culinary scene. The owner was beloved, the cuisine (Ethiopian) was uncommon, and the place was located on High Street in the main drag.

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    Good news for fans of Ethiopian food and its injera bread: Addis serves up the regional food too, and the host is lovely. It’s on Cleveland Avenue, in the bustling zone where it meets Cooke Road. And while that’s not exactly as hip as High Street near campus, the parking is much easier.

    The blocky, squat, utilitarian building isn’t much to look at. Case in point, it appears that the street number is scrawled in Sharpie above the establishment’s mailbox. Inside, though, guests are warmly greeted. There’s a funky-cool incense burner, cooking away at the receiving desk, and the immaculate dining room is unexpectedly bright and sunny.

    Even if ethnic food isn’t your gig, you can find something on the menu to eat. Case in point, Chicken Salad ($6.99). A heap of soft, finely cut greens are tossed with briny, sautéed chicken and onions. There are a few token raisins and hot pepper slices in there for fun, and a vinaigrette to tie it all together. It’s got all the things any salad lover would embrace.

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    For those who are more willing to try less ubiquitous foods, the house-recommended Doro Wot ($9.99) is a terrific choice. The dish is chicken simmered in berbere, it makes a fantastically viscous sauce with a spicy, exotic accent reminiscent of pure cumin. Buried beneath the sauce like a treasure is a chicken leg and a boiled egg, both items are made more interesting by the stew in which they soak.

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    There are also beef options on the menu. A stand out is Mahbarawi ($13); lean beef tips, cooked soft with garlic, peppers, onions and tomato in a spicy stew that’s served with a cavalcade of vegetable side dishes. There’s a pocket of soft cooked, chopped greens, a tidy heap of super starchy beets, two versions of legumes (the seasoned red ones were especially addictive), a little salad, and a personal favorite: a homey combo of cabbage, potatoes and thick slices of carrots, all cooked together.

    The Doro Tibs ($9.99) was just okay. it’s a straightforward chicken and sauce event. Its nuggets of boneless chicken in stew are not as entertaining as the Doro Wot, and not as glorious as the vegetable-laden Mahbarawi. It’s hard for Doro Tibs to compete for stomach space with the more interesting menu options.

    All the dishes are served with a foundational injera bread (and a mini-salad). It’s floppy, soft and absorbent; perfect for the sauces worth eating. It’s also mild flavored. While the buckwheat bread’s bitterness can inspire a mixed reception in diners, the injera here is palatable and it does make a good companion for the menu items.

    To wash it all down, you can choose from beverages that range from smoothies to traditional Ethiopian coffee. You can find Addis at 3750 Cleveland Avenue. It’s open every day of the week, from noon until 9pm.

    For more information, visit www.addis-restaurant.com.

    Photos by Walker Evans.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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