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Treat to Try: Whisk

Miriam Bowers Abbott Miriam Bowers Abbott Treat to Try: WhiskPhoto by Miriam Bowers Abbott.
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To be frank, cinnamon rolls have been kind of disappointing recently. Not enough filling, dry and flavorless, fatty, unsweet icing: the list of complaints can start right there.

But still, the one spotted from Whisk looked delicious — and Hallelujah Glory Be, the little bakery delivered a cinnamon roll that is worth fighting random waves of humanity at farmers’ markets. Look at it (pictured). It’s tall, and tallness can sometimes be a bad sign, but that’s not the case here. Consider everything the height delivers in this specimen:

1) First and foremost, it delivers extra goopy, sweet cinnamon stuff. Gallons of it are hidden inside the tall folds of the cinnamon roll. The filling is thick enough to ooze out the sides when you cut (or bite) into the pastry. When was the last time you had a cinnamon roll deliver something like that? I’ll answer that: never. Boom.

2) The bread that wraps around the filling is soft and dewey, as opposed to dry and chewy. And then . . .

3) The icing is sweet. Sweet, sugary icing doesn’t seem like a difficult thing to deliver, but dang, it sure is a rarity in a scene where icings tend to lean weirdly toward “oily.”

Whisk makes more than cinnamon rolls. As a self-billed online baking operation, it offers a spectrum of treats through special orders and market appearances: cupcakes, cheesecakes, brownies, muffins and scones. The bakery also does a nice job with carrot cake. Found at the market in both loaf and cupcake form, the house recipe involves raisins (bonus points right there), and a nice, tender, spongy texture, with a generous layer of frosting that leans more toward traditional than a cream-cheese-sour.

Cinnamon rolls first, though. Then you can branch out and try the other stuff. You’ll find its market schedule, ordering information and menu at lovethatwhisk.com/farmersmarket.

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