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    Review: The Original Max & Erma’s

    When is a chain restaurant not a chain restaurant? When its got local roots. Or at least that’s what I tell myself when visiting restaurants like The Original Max & Erma’s location in German Village. Originally opened in 1958 by the namesake couple as a neighborhood restaurant, the chain was officially born in 1972 when the concept was purchased and then expanded into dozens of locations around the US. Max & Erma’s has gone through a bit of a rough patch over the past few years with several ownership changes and a corporate ownership bankruptcy. Despite a few local locations closing recently, the original eatery in German Village lives on.

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    I decided to pay a visit recently to see if anything has changed, as it’s been at least five years since my last Max & Erma’s experience. To my delight, there were several items marked as “NEW” on the menu, so I ordered only items with that indicator beside them.

    New additions to the starter menu include the Caesar Salad ($2.99 when added to an entree) and Erma’s bad Dog Chili ($2.99 when added to an entree). The chili has a pretty standard meat and beans base, topped with two kinds of cheese. Chunks of onion and corn were discovered within, and I was surprised at the level of heat. Probably hot enough to warrant a little hot pepper icon on the menu, but none was to be found, so be warned if you prefer your chili on the milder side. The Caesar Salad was basic- romaine lettuce, Parmesan, Caesar dressing, croutons and came with a breadstick on the side. The lettuce was a slight bit wilted and some pieces were cut too large. The Parmesan would have been much better freshly shaved rather than a pile of powdered cheese. It was also very heavy on the dressing, so order it on the side if you want to self-apply a lighter dousing. The warm breadstick was a usual garlic-butter breadstick and was a nice addition. However, the garlic croutons were overly salty.

    One of the new additions to the sandwich menu at Max & Erma’s is the Grilled Chicken BLTA ($8.99 with a side of fries). This sandwich contains a whole grilled chicken breast topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion and avocado strips, some sort of mayo-based sauce, and served on a rye bun. The chicken was well prepared, bacon was crispy, avocado was slightly dark in spots, and all of the rest of the toppings were fresh. I couldn’t quite put my finger on the sauce, but it was runnier than mayo, and not nearly enough was used to counterbalance the incredible dryness of the rye bun. The fries were pretty average, and seemed to be just about how I remembered them at Max & Erma’s, though on this visit, the kitchen staff was working with a heavy hand when it came to the salt shaker. I had to scrape my fries against the edge of my plate to remove some of the salt and return them to an edible level.

    Another new addition to the sandwich menu is the Fish Tacos ($8.99 served with chips & salsa), which are not a sandwich. Regardless of classification, this was a pretty good dish. Flour tortillas are served overflowing with breaded whitefish, a citrus cabbage slaw, tomatoes, cheese, sour cream and cilantro. I was able to make four tacos. The citrus slaw provided a nice punch. This dish was definitely the star of the new menu items I’ve tasted, and could hold its own against any other fish tacos from a similar type of non-Mexican restaurant. The chips on the side were pretty standard, and I upgraded my salsa to guacamole, which made the whole dish even better.

    For dessert I ordered a slice of Erma’s Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie ($3.99). Although a bit messy on presentation, this seasonal treat was a very nice rendition of the Thanksgiving classic. The pie filling was creamy, with a lighter dosage of the nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger, which is exactly the way I enjoy it. The crust could have been flakier, and the whipped cream topping could have been applied more amply, but overall I would have been happy to consume this slice at a family gathering during the holidays.

    It’s easy to say that the new menu additions at Max & Erma’s are hit and miss, but it’s tougher to say exactly why some of these dishes didn’t fly. A misfire with the application of salt or seasonings could have been due to an off night in this particular location rather than a faulty corporate menu, so I’m not quite sure what went wrong with a few of my lackluster choices. Still, if you’re looking to play it safe with your comfort food, The Original Max & Erma’s is a good place to satisfy that desire while still supporting a historic institution that represents what was once a one-of-a-kind neighborhood experience.

    The Original Max & Erma’s is located at 739 South 3rd Street in German Village. They will be open on Thanksgiving Day.

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    Morgan Kelley
    Morgan Kelleyhttps://columbusunderground.com
    I'm the former Restaurant & Food Critic of Columbus Underground. I love all types of food, and I'm not afraid to try anything once. I strive to adhere to the Association of Food Journalists guidelines, which means I don't do special foodie events, I pay for all of my meals in full and I will always share with you my honest and unbiased opinion.
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