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    Restaurant Review: GoCupz

    Aloha Hawaiian Barbecue was something of a magnet for local diners. One of the few places in town that offered Hawaiian fare (at least, before poké became an Official Thing), it was equally loved for its take on more mainstream Asian offerings.

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    All that can be a hard act to follow, but GoCupz has officially set up shop and is doing its own thing at Aloha’s former address. There are very few physical changes, with one glaring exception: the new joint has adopted a build-your-own (yes, Chipotle) model.

    This change will be difficult to swallow for fans of the old joint’s Loco Moco or mayo-heavy macaroni salad. Those babies are gone, gone, gone. It’s good news, on the other hand, for fans of bulgogi: that particular delicacy is available in a rich and plentiful supply. So from a personal perspective, there’s no reason to weep.

    About that bulgogi: it’s one of the meat choices in the now-familiar build-your-own menu model. Just like at every other build-your-own joint, your choice of meat sets the price. Options such as Bulgogi ($8.99) or Kalbi ($9.99) are at the higher-end. But there are also options that include tofu (6.49), shrimp ($7.79) and chicken ($7.49) in several flavors. Guests pair the meat with a starch (noodles or rice), vegetables, and a sauce.

    The Bulgogi is wet, served in razor-thin sheets that are soaked in a sublime, signature sweet n’ salty brew. It makes for easy eating, teamed with stretchy rice noodles and crunchy cucumber, carrot, corn, onions and long, noodly strands of egg. As a sauce, sweet soy seemed to make sense with the bulgogi.

    The Kalbi has earned a lot of online raves from diners for its good value, but it wasn’t a favorite. The little rib slabs hit the grill before being added to the bowl, and earn definite points for creating an aroma that is distinctly carnivore-heaven. Being ribs, they’re also bony, which should be expected, and the teeny bits of meat connected to the ribs are chewy and more than a little suspicious. It makes you wish for more of the binge-worthy purity of the bulgogi instead.

    On to the chicken scene. The teriyaki delivers flavorful bits of poultry that make a fine vehicle for the tender purple rice, more veggies and this time: Yum Yum sauce, a creamy, briny sauce that gives the dish a little extra heft. It’s probably the cultural equivalent of Ranch dressing.

    There are a few sides you can add to round out the meal. The Wings ($7.49) actually could be a meal. They’re freshly fried, big, sizable pieces, coated in a crackling shell, then baptized in a choice of sauce — the mild has a good balance of sweet and salty. Dumplings ($3.99) are also options. They come in both a vegetable and kimchee version. The tidy, well-formed vegetable ones were more complex and sturdy than you might expect from a vegetable filling. A nice little side.

    You can find GoCupz at 974 W. Fifth Ave. It’s open every day, from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m.

    For more information, visit their Facebook page.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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