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    Restaurant Review: Wolf’s Ridge Brewing

    Downtown’s new Wolf’s Ridge Brewing isn’t just for Beer-o-philes. It’s got a straight-up fancy menu at which any self-respecting food lover would want to peek.

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    More than that, you don’t even have to like beer to appreciate the beer aesthetics of the joint. Big glass windows in the back of the restaurant overlook ginormous gleaming metal kettle-thingies. Presumably, those containers hold beer and the sheer size and sparkly-ness of the hardware is impressive and intoxicating — no pun intended.

    In spite of the fanciness, there’s no pretense at Wolf’s Ridge. Service has been friendly and casual so far. The staff is quite nice, but no stiff, uncomfortable formality.

    And you might expect formality, or at least a little fussy artifice, from a menu that features Sweet Breads and Chicken and Herb Pate.

    While you could opt out of the fancy items and start with a ubiquitous caprese salad, branch out and do the Endive ($12) one instead. When it’s raw, Endive is notoriously bitter, and the crisp leaves in the salad meet that expectation. They’re coated in a thick dressing with clots of bleu cheese, walnuts and plump dried cherries. On top of the conglomeration are micro threads of sweet julienned apples. The most sublime bites are the ones that have a bit of each element on the fork.

    The small plate offerings get really fancy with options that range from frog legs and the aforementioned sweet breads to a cheese plate. The IPA Steamed Mussels ($12) are the bomb, particularly because of the combo in which they’re steamed. It’s an insanely good mixture the menu describes as chorizo, tomato, garlic, lemon, parsley and onions. It needs a place in the sun, and a big, giant, shining kettle of its own.

    When it comes to entrees, the menu offers an intellectually manageable selection, with a handful of options from land and sea. On the land side was Bacon Wrapped Chicken and Herb Pate ($19). Think in terms of chicken loaf, only more sophisticated. Delicate slices of the loaf (pate) perch atop mashed potatoes in a fancified presentation. The flavors are more basically appealing – chicken, bacon and potatoes is good from more homespun kitchens too.

    Or, there is the Corn Dusted Walleye ($21). Its delicate fishy flesh is teamed with something seldom seen: smoked sour cream. And the smoke is both detectable and delicious.

    Wolf’s Ridge Brewing also offers a brunch menu. Like a true brunch, it bridges breakfast and lunch with items that are pure-breakfasty such as Toad in Hole (eggs in brioche), French Toast with macerated berries and a Lamb Burger that features cheddar that’s been aged for six years.

    You can find the new restaurant at 215 North Fourth Street. It’s made a serious commitment to the community with its long hours of operation. Wolf’s Ridge Brewing opens weekdays at 10:30am. It closes Mondays at 3pm, Tuesdays through Thursdays at 11pm and Fridays it closes at midnight. On weekends, the restaurant opens at 10am (for brunch), and it stays open until midnight Saturday and 10pm on Sunday.

    More information can be found online at www.wolfsridgebrewing.com.

    Photos by Walker Evans.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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