There’s nothing wrong with mega-chains per se. Hating big restaurant projects with big money backers is like hating anything hugely successful: it’s entertaining as a recreational activity for contrarians.
For the same sort of irrational reasons, there’s a soft spot in my heart for mom n’pop operations. ShuGar Daisy’s fits that niche. It’s a small business; a new cake bakery that serves up old-fashioned sub sandwiches and cupcakes on the edge of Clintonville.
For lack of a better word, it’s very femme. At least, “femme” in a traditional sense: its glamorous design scheme involves both hot pink and big thick stripes. Even so, two strapping fellows were spotted finishing off their lunches during the first review visit. That’s testimony to the fact that ShuGar Daisy’s is also a welcoming spot, with a few little café tables and shelving with penny candy (well, three-cent candy).
And while you could go straight to the desserts, mammoth, oven-baked subs are made on command for $5 (each); a steal. The oven process crisps ups the crust on the soft, traditional sub buns. In the case of the turkey or ham versions, the owner stuffs them with shredded lettuce, lots of mayo (sweet though, so probably Miracle Whip for those who are into mayonnaise wars), sliced tomatoes, and banana peppers. The deli meat is good quality – you notice it in the ham. It’s not pieces and parts fused together, it’s thin sliced, intact muscle.
Of course, the pepperoni in the Italian sub is another story. Pepperoni is what it is, and the house combines razor thin, dewy slices with ham and Italian dressing. Perhaps the sandwich is a little less comforting than the turkey or ham versions, but no less delicious.
Dessert: start with the Sweet Potato Pie ($2.75). First, because it’s a good bet that it’s more nutritious than some side you might choose elsewhere, like pasta or potato salad. Sweet potato pie at least has a ridiculous amount of vitamin A. That should count for something in the vegetable department: the pie can work as a side dish.
And it’s perfect; sweet potato pie is distinct from the similarly hued pumpkin pie. It might have that holiday spice accent, but its texture is less eggy and custardy. It has a potato-y starchiness that melts in the mouth. The tall slice sits in a classic pie crust; a tender base that doesn’t overshadow the filling.
Or, since we’re being heathy, there is a homespun Fruit Cookie ($5). Lovely to behold in its foil tin, it’s a sugar cookie base, softened with a cloud of whipped cream and topped with a mixture of kiwi, banana, strawberry and mandarin orange slices. It’s the teeny orange slices that give it a particular old-fashioned charm.
No amounts of personal delusion will make the Jar Cake ($5) a health-food item. But… it is cake in a jar. It’s hard for anything to compete with the magic of eating layers of cake soaked in whipped cream straight out of a jar with a spoon. The chocolate version boasted oreo crumbles as one of the interior layers; inhaled.
And cupcakes. Cupcakes ($2.75) are likely the closest kin to the bakery’s official business item. A catalog at the counter displays a stunning collection of custom cakes in all sorts of shapes and hues. The cupcakes sit on display nearby with whirls of frosting and little garnishes atop. They share some common positive attributes: fresh, tender-crumb base and and a sweet frosting that puts the fatty, flavorless big-box frostings to shame. The Sweet Potato and the Red Velvet were the house favorites.
You can find ShuGar Daisy’s at 219 E. Arcadia Ave.
For more information, visit www.shugardaisys.com.
Photos by Miriam Bowers Abbott.