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    Restaurant Review: Over the Counter

    Over the Counter has a whole bunch of cuteness going for it. With scant promotion, the sleek-looking diner set up shop in a strip mall that sits near the Worthington/Beechwold border. The address was formerly home to a pharmacy, so the eatery’s moniker does double-duty as a historical reference, as well as a nifty hat-tip to how diner fare is often served.

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    It’s more than a diner, though; you can self-medicate at Over the Counter’s full bar and its selection of beer and wine. That’s right, you can score a nice chardonnay to go with your hot dog and chips, if that’s your scene. Plus, lots of the traditional diner offerings on the menu are house-made. There’s no fuss, no announcement or lengthy menu descriptions detailing the recipes. It comes as a surprise when something like the mini-corn dogs arrive in artisanal form.

    About those Mini-Corn Dogs ($6.29): they’re worth fussing over. The lil’ dogs are angus-based and fryer-fresh in super-crispy crackling shells. It’s not a rehash of something forgotten and frozen, it’s the real deal: fair food.

    Same thing with the Pretzel Bites ($5.49). Having always associated the dish as a pre-packaged option at the movies, it’s a little shocking to be served dewey soft, wedges of warm pretzel bread teamed with a silky-smooth cheese sauce that’s accented with the vaguely fermented flavor of beer.

    The Loaded Chips ($7.59) want more toppings. Points for using house-made potato chips. They’re topped with cheese, chili, peppers and tomatoes. It’s a lovely, balanced mess that highlights the chips. From a personal perspective, though, the concept of loaded chips requires an imbalanced, loaded excess of toppings. More mess please.

    Beyond appetizer options at the diner is the classic midwestern menu, populated with a lot of sandwich options. The Fish Sandwich ($8.99) was well-executed, offering an oversized fillet that refuses to be contained by the perimeter of the bun. The flaky fish flesh is sheltered by its uber-crunchy shell and drizzled with tarter sauce. It’s served with a ramekin of coleslaw and house chips.

    For hot dog fans, the longish dogs gets a little extra love in the kitchen: they’re split down the middle and then grilled for the extra finishing touch. Might as well go all the way and deck it in some appealing homespun sloppy joe sauce and cheese ($8.29).

     

    Diners are associated with breakfasts, but at this point in the game, Over the Counter is not a breakfast joint. Posted hours say it opens around 2 p.m. daily (closed Mondays). That said, the diner is doing just fine at pulling people in during the evening hours. It’s a good formula for the neighborhood with its lack of del-conscious pretense. Over the Counter gets the job done. You can find it at 5596 N. High St. and online at overthecounterofworthington.com.

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    Miriam Bowers Abbott
    Miriam Bowers Abbotthttps://columbusunderground.com
    Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelancer contributor to Columbus Underground who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric featurettes and occasionally pens other community journalism pieces.
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