Editor’s Note: In the short amount of time between this review taking place and today’s publishing schedule, Garam Masala has closed their doors at 5467 Bethel Sawmill Center. Their phone is disconnected, their website has been taken offline, and other customers have reported it as closed on Yelp. Rather than let this review go unpublished, we decided to share it for those who managed to enjoy the restaurant while it was open.
Garam Masalla set up shop inside the former home of a W.G. Grinders near the intersection of Bethel and Sawmill roads. In a neighborhood rich in international dining options, the space has a big dining room, with utilitarian tables and chairs. Other than the luxurious curtains that cover the windows, the joint is not particularly Indian looking. Case in point: the table centerpieces feature ceramic antlers.
Even without the visual cues that might suggest ethnic eats, you can tell it’s an Indian Restaurant, even before opening the door. It’s more than the name, there’s a lovely aroma of distinctively Indian cuisine that surrounds the entrance.
The price point on the menu makes it easy to try lots of things, especially with a guest or two at the table. In the appetizer section, there are several places to start. The Chicken Lollipops ($7.95) are popular: they’re very cute with the meat pushed up to make a tidy breaded ball at the end of a bone handle. The outside crackles, the chicken itself is moist.
But it’s the vegetable appetizer options that outshine the lollipops. Try the restaurant’s version of Potato Cakes ($4.95) instead. The addition of lentils in the mix gives the fried disks an appealing bit of extra body. It’s all the fried goodness of potatoes, with a sturdier presentation to make the cakes seem less like junk food.
Or an order of a classic, Samosa ($2.95): the crunchy fried pastries holds a hot mixture of potatoes and peas.
The Tandoori Shrimp ($7.95) was less beloved at the table. The shrimp is good quality -plump and firm. It’s just that the seasoning takes over the flavor, so the seafood becomes merely a vehicle for the briny, red seasoning signature.
In the entree department, the menu includes lots of traditional Indian offerings. For example, Vegetable Curry ($9.95) delivers long-cooked vegetables in a aromatic stew that fills the void on a cold day. Alternately, the curry can be ordered with a variety of additions, the paneer (a house-made cheese) rendition is on the list for the next visit.
There’s also a very classic Chicken Tikka ($10.95) -boneless breast chunks, marinated in yogurt and baked in a clay oven to impart the savory addictive qualities normally reserved for things like potato chips.
Lots of Indian restaurants offer buffets for the lunch crowd, and Garam Masala conforms to the norm there. Its lunch buffet runs seven days a week, and permits guests to try lots of items from the menu.
Garam Masala is also halal*, so its menu offers meats that have been prepared in accordance with Islamic law. That includes offerings on the menu such as chicken, beef, lamb and goat too.
Ultimately, though, its general audience appeal comes from its accessibility and good value.
You can find Garam Masala at 5467 Bethel Sawmill center. It’s open for lunch Mondays through Friday from 11:30am until 2:30pm. On weekends, lunch runs from 11am until 3pm, Dinner hours start daily at 5pm. Garam Masala closes at 9pm on weekdays and at 10pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
(*Learning experience: shrimp are not kosher, but they are halal.)
For more information, visit www.garammasalarestaurant.com.