Rooks Tavern is billed as upscale “boutique” barbecue, so it seems reasonable to have some concerns over whether a t-shirt is okay guest apparel. You can wear a t-shirt. The staff wears flannel. Half the guests are wearing t-shirts. It’s all good.
So the boutique bit, that has more to do with the service (it’s not another Chipotle-model joint), and there’s thoughtfulness that goes into the menu combinations. You’re not going to get ordinary slaw or potato salad with that order — it’s going to be special stuff. There’s a significant commitment to local ingredients too, which is all part of the appeal.
Rooks set up shop in the University District in November, not far from Weinland Park and Italian Village. While the area has seen its share of start-ups eateries recently, Rooks Tavern is fancier. Rooks has a defined look best described as “industrial-woodsy”, and an open kitchen that permits admiration of unusual — almost medieval-looking — cooking devices.
Brunch seems like a good time to give Rooks a whirl, as it gives the restaurant a chance to show off its creativity in merging breakfast fare into the world of barbecue. At that hour, the crowd of guests boasts a robust mix of ages and demographics, and not particularly student-ish as might be expected in the campus area.
Even in the morning hours, you can dive right in with a serious Texas Barbecue Plate ($22). An order delivers a ridiculously huge portion of sliced brisket (you can choose pork as an alternative). It’s deeply smoked, and as addictive as potato chips. As a foil, there’s an atypical slaw collection with long, crisp strands of cabbage and substantial strips of carrots: more sour-than-sweet. Plus, the order also yields an equally atypical potato salad, with uniform cubes of potatoes held together with a mildly spicy, orange-hued dressing.
There’s also a version of Poutine ($10) on the menu: thick fries topped with soft melted cheese curds and mild, dewey rib meat. The combo is tied together with a dark gravy boasting a strong New Orleans Roux accent. The poutine makes for hearty, heavy fare.
In the more traditional breakfast category, you can score Pancakes ($10). Even those have something boutique-ish about them. First, they’re smallish. That certainly says upscale-boutique. They’re also served with smoked cream, and that provides quality sensory entertainment. A swirling dollop nestles beside the stack. It’s dairy sweet, and pleasantly smoky, as promised. Then, there’s plump blueberries (and/or raspberries) and syrup for a classic finisher.
Also in the sweet zone is the Banana Pecan French Toast ($10). It’s bigger, built on thick slices of peasant bread, and heavily bedecked with pecan crunchies across the top. An array of bananas slices sits off to the side to make a plate that is aesthetically pleasing on about every level.
The menu expands to include a selection of salads, and egg-centric combinations too. You can wash it all down with options from the full bar: house cocktails, wine or something from the beer selection that ranges from Miller Light to North High Milk Stout.
You can find Rooks at 195 Chittenden Avenue. Parking can be tricky, but the Gateway garage isn’t too far. There’s also advice on the Rooks website: rookstavern.com.
All photos by Lillian Dent.
